Features

  • Climbing Power Workout #1 »

    Here’s the first of the two power routines that I did this month. I did this one four times, and used it to gauge progress. Strength improved over 20% in…

  • When To End Your Training Block »

    My block of power training is complete, slightly ahead a schedule. I made great improvements in only six workouts, so why, you might ask, would I shut it down midway…

  • “The Best” Athletes Over 60 »

    This week’s Psyche features “10(12) Athletes Over 60 Who Can Kick Your Butt”,  a great, motivational piece from The Daily Burn. Not sure about “the best” sensationalism, since neither of…

  • Rock & Ice’s Power Training Plan: Analysis »

    I was asked to review a recent article on power training, published in Rock & Ice magazine. The article, written by UK climber Neil Gresham, recommends this protocol for a…

  • Shut Up, Stomach! »

    Fascinating report on NPR yesterday about how what we think we’ve eaten can affect how hungry we are. I first heard the news on NPR, then was sent this link…

  • 10 Thoughts on Power, Hormones, and Counter-Intuitive Training »

    While weight lifted and calories burned make sexy headlines about training, the singular most important aspect is how you influence your body’s hormone production. Power training focuses on neither of…

  • Safe & Efficient Power Training »

    Tinkering with another workout today that could, theoretically, change how we train for climbing. It’s already changed how we train for many power sports because it makes power training safe….

  • 1,000′ of Vertical in 27 Minutes! »

    This week’s Psyche is nuts. So much so that Planet Mountain, a web site solely devoted to athletic exploits in the mountains, had this to say about it. We heard…

  • The Power Of (Not) Eating »

    Today’s post is on losing weight while training power. Gravity athletes (climbers, cyclists, dancers, etc) are obsessed with their strength to weight ratio. I won’t go into specifics why you…

  • Power Training: What & Why? »

    April is power month. I’ll be posting a series of articles and workouts on power training, which is one of my favorite things to do. Unfortunately, since I’ve spent that…

From Blog

Climbing Power Workout #1
Features
April 24, 2014

Climbing Power Workout #1

Here’s the first of the two power routines that I did this month. I did this one four times, and used it to gauge progress. Strength improved over 20% in…

When To End Your Training Block
Features
April 22, 2014

When To End Your Training Block

My block of power training is complete, slightly ahead a schedule. I made great improvements in only six workouts, so why, you might ask, would I shut it down midway…

“The Best” Athletes Over 60
age
April 18, 2014

“The Best” Athletes Over 60

This week’s Psyche features “10(12) Athletes Over 60 Who Can Kick Your Butt”,  a great, motivational piece from The Daily Burn. Not sure about “the best” sensationalism, since neither of…

Shut Up, Stomach!
Features
April 15, 2014

Shut Up, Stomach!

Fascinating report on NPR yesterday about how what we think we’ve eaten can affect how hungry we are. I first heard the news on NPR, then was sent this link…