Features

  • Rock & Ice’s Power Training Plan: Analysis »

    I was asked to review a recent article on power training, published in Rock & Ice magazine. The article, written by UK climber Neil Gresham, recommends this protocol for a…

  • Shut Up, Stomach! »

    Fascinating report on NPR yesterday about how what we think we’ve eaten can affect how hungry we are. I first heard the news on NPR, then was sent this link…

  • 10 Thoughts on Power, Hormones, and Counter-Intuitive Training »

    While weight lifted and calories burned make sexy headlines about training, the singular most important aspect is how you influence your body’s hormone production. Power training focuses on neither of…

  • Safe & Efficient Power Training »

    Tinkering with another workout today that could, theoretically, change how we train for climbing. It’s already changed how we train for many power sports because it makes power training safe….

  • 1,000′ of Vertical in 27 Minutes! »

    This week’s Psyche is nuts. So much so that Planet Mountain, a web site solely devoted to athletic exploits in the mountains, had this to say about it. We heard…

  • The Power Of (Not) Eating »

    Today’s post is on losing weight while training power. Gravity athletes (climbers, cyclists, dancers, etc) are obsessed with their strength to weight ratio. I won’t go into specifics why you…

  • Power Training: What & Why? »

    April is power month. I’ll be posting a series of articles and workouts on power training, which is one of my favorite things to do. Unfortunately, since I’ve spent that…

  • Gimme Kraft! »

    This is a review of a new book on training for climbing. Gimme Kraft! (German for Give me Power!) is much more of a reference book than anything else. It contains…

  • World’s Hardest: Felt Like I Was Having A Heart Attack »

    Nice story of what’s, currently, the world’s hardest route. How do we know? Because the two guys who’ve done all the other hardest lines are working on it, together. The…

  • How To Organize A Training Cycle »

    Today we take a look at the thought process around organizing a training cycle. 1      Start with a goal and work backwards. This simplifies the structuring process. In order to…

From Blog

Shut Up, Stomach!
Features
April 15, 2014

Shut Up, Stomach!

Fascinating report on NPR yesterday about how what we think we’ve eaten can affect how hungry we are. I first heard the news on NPR, then was sent this link…

Safe & Efficient Power Training
Features
April 8, 2014

Safe & Efficient Power Training

Tinkering with another workout today that could, theoretically, change how we train for climbing. It’s already changed how we train for many power sports because it makes power training safe….

1,000′ of Vertical in 27 Minutes!
climbing
April 4, 2014

1,000′ of Vertical in 27 Minutes!

This week’s Psyche is nuts. So much so that Planet Mountain, a web site solely devoted to athletic exploits in the mountains, had this to say about it. We heard…