Features

  • The Balance of Training and Recovery »

    Any training beyond what your body can recover from is a waste of time at best. At worst it can lead to things such as overtraining syndrome, which I posted…

  • Overtraining Syndrome »

    Here’s a great article in Outside called Running On Empty about something  called Overtraining Syndrome. You’ve heard a lot of talk about overtraining here. As with most athletes, the balance…

  • Risk »

    Whenever a high profile climber dies I get a lot of questions about risk. And while I believe we should all be able to live as dangerously as we see…

  • CdJ, Gd’I & My 1st Post-Cancer Challenge »

    For my first post on a new computer I couldn’t be more excited, therefore, this weekend’s Psyche is mostly about me. Well, it could be about you, too, as the template…

  • Prednisone, Exercise and Weight Gain »

    Prednisone is a very common drug, used for many applications, so I was surprised to see very little information about staying healthy while taking it. Today we’ll look at why…

  • Drinking for Platelets »

    Perhaps there’s more physiological science to all those studies showing drinkers out live non-drinkers than we know. They’ve always been chalked up to psychology and/or coincidence. After months of trying…

  • Nutrient Nitpicking For Gaining Mass »

    Today’s post is an answer to a question about the article I wrote titled How Do I Bulk Up? in the Team Beachbody Newsletter. You can read it by clicking here….

  • Training For Your Goals »

    For your weekend Psyche, here’s a very cool video on training for your goals, featuring climber Emily Harrington who plans to go huge in 2015. If you’re a regular, you’ve…

  • Less Than Zero »

    Here’s another recovery update, which I thought was worth posting since I thought of a funny title. As I mentioned last time, there have been some hiccups in my comeback,…

  • Mixing Power & Endurance »

    One of my fitness gurus, Dr. Fred Hatfield, titled a chapter in his book Power, “Power and Endurance: ne’er the twain shall meet.” From a physiological point of view, he’s…

From Blog

Overtraining Syndrome
crazy training
June 23, 2015

Overtraining Syndrome

Here’s a great article in Outside called Running On Empty about something  called Overtraining Syndrome. You’ve heard a lot of talk about overtraining here. As with most athletes, the balance…

Risk
climbing
June 10, 2015

Risk

Whenever a high profile climber dies I get a lot of questions about risk. And while I believe we should all be able to live as dangerously as we see…

Drinking for Platelets
Cancer Nutrition
April 30, 2015

Drinking for Platelets

Perhaps there’s more physiological science to all those studies showing drinkers out live non-drinkers than we know. They’ve always been chalked up to psychology and/or coincidence. After months of trying…

Training For Your Goals
climbing
April 17, 2015

Training For Your Goals

For your weekend Psyche, here’s a very cool video on training for your goals, featuring climber Emily Harrington who plans to go huge in 2015. If you’re a regular, you’ve…