This is a great interview with the late Patrick Edlinger. I don’t generally find climbing interviews inspiring but this one is different. “Le Blond’s” views don’t seem tainted with jealously or disdain about the new generation, which is so common it’s become cliche. He’s extremely positive and insightful, and also gets at the heart of why we climb.
“You’re obliged to to focus on here and now. To concentrate totally. All of a sudden you forget your problems. The things that don’t interest you.”
We also get to hear the story of Ceuse, still probably the single best climbing cliff on earth. How he stumbled upon it on the eve of a trip to the US, tore up his tickets, and stayed there for the next four years. It’s like a climbing dream (literally for me as I’ve had so many dreams of finding epic crags I can’t begin to remember them all.)
But, since an interview isn’t enough for Psyche, here some “Dreammaker” action from 1982, the brilliant film Life By Your Fintertips. It’s got one-arm pinky pull-ups, doing the splits between boulders, a sweet van, high white pants, German techo music about robots, drum solos; basically anything you’d need to get motivated to climb.