August 9, 2013 posted by

Meltdown: World’s Hardest Slab

Meltdown: World’s Hardest Slab

For your weekend Psyche is the story of Meltdown, the world’s hardest slab climb. Bolted 30 years ago by climbing legend Johnny Dawes, he never managed to link it–or even come close–even though he was probably the best slab climber in the world at the time. In this old vid (below) he and Jerry Moffat work the route circa 1985.

For a worked route in a somewhat high traffic area to remain a project for so long is practically unheard of. I can’t think of another, in fact. It took the focus of a local climber at the top of his game to put the project to rest. James McHaffie has been on an absolute tear and, I believe, Meltdown was the last of the hard routes/projects left from him to clean up in Wales. Congrats to him, as well as Dawes for his vision. Looks like an amazing route!

Photo: Jack Geldard



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