• Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

Tired Of All The Possibilities Of It All!
June 23, 2014

Tired Of All The Possibilities Of It All!

“Lay off Dicky, I’m tired.” Says protagonist Hayden K. Lorry in Icarus Descending, a lost-but-not-forgotten-cult-non-classic neo-noir spoof/homage/send-up that was written and directed by Todd Mei (aka Fred C. Dobbs) and…

The Ultimate Cutting Diet
June 5, 2014

The Ultimate Cutting Diet

As part 2 of the cutting diet discussion (part 1), I’m going to analyze a long and thorough article by bodybuilder Layne Norton. If your serious about trying a cutting diet,…

The Sufferfest
May 24, 2014

The Sufferfest

“Type 4 fun, where it’s just stupid.” – Alex Honnold After a winter “off”, it’s time to start dialing up the training for more epic adventures, leading to, yet another,…

Zig-Zagging aka Refeeding
May 22, 2014

Zig-Zagging aka Refeeding

Whether you want to lose weight, gain weight, or just eat so that you perform your best, the most effective tool to figure out how much you should be eating…

New Vintage
May 16, 2014

New Vintage

For your weekend Psyche, a cool vid featuring new schooler, Jakob Shubert, belayed by an old schooler on one of his proudest lines. Cutting edge when it was established, Andrea…