Features

  • Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

doping
October 7, 2008

Bigger Stronger Faster

I’ve written a fair amount about drug use in sports over the years. Some of you have pointed out that sometimes I seem to vilify it while other times I’m…

doping
October 6, 2008

Listen To Your Body

Here’s a rant by Gregg Valentino, the man with the largest arms in the world. The guy is pretty controversial but he talks straight. We cover most of these subjects…

injury
October 4, 2008

Injuries

Yesterday my foot popped off a hold while working on my project (video of route, not me), shock-loaded my already weakened shoulder, and this morning I’m sitting here icing and…

challenges
October 2, 2008

Fall

For outdoor athletes, fall is the best time of the year. Climbing with Ben the other day, he stated his desire to start taking every October off of work. It…

challenges
September 29, 2008

Ride & Climb 5 Canyons

I’ve been working out the logistics for my friend Trent’s birthday challenge, which is to do a human-powered five canyon day, featuring riding and climbing. Trent’s great at coming up…

challenges
September 25, 2008

The Big Nasty

Romney and I dusted off the tandem and rode the Moab Century Tour last weekend. We hadn’t ridden it since Ebbett’s Pass over the July 4th weekend as it’s been…

Beachbody
September 24, 2008

Period-i-zational

This word still doesn’t show up in the dictionary, yet, it’s probably the most important technical term in physical training. Lack of adherence to the principles of periodizational training means…