Features

  • Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

Uncategorized
July 16, 2008

Big Cottonwood

I love the climbing in Big Cottonwood Canyon. This, apparently, is a strange sentiment. Most people I run across hate it. I find the rock some of the most friendly…

P90X
July 16, 2008

Adaptation

With two weeks off after finishing my 90 days I’m pretty sore. The reason is that during my “off” time I began both interval training on the bike and climbing…

Uncategorized
July 14, 2008

Why This Blog?

I was thinking yesterday that I may have spent more time climbing in weird or obscure areas around the world than anyone alive. During the decade I spent on the…

Uncategorized
July 14, 2008

The Slips

For a blog focusing on obscure routes it’s a little strange to begin at one of the most popular areas in Big Cottonwood. There are a few weird routes here…

age
July 12, 2008

Age

“Age doesn’t mean shit.”– Johnny Gray, after winning the Pan Am games 800m nearing his forth decade After interviewing Tony for his 50th you’d probably think that he and I…

climbing
July 7, 2008

The Speed King

Hans and Yuji have done it again! Truly unbelievable, this time, as their new Nose record is somewhat off-the-couch and bested a time set by two of the world’s best…

age
July 7, 2008

Fab 50

Tony just turned 50. Happy birthday, man. Here’s part I of a little birthday tribute, which Tony called his ‘best birthday present’. We’ll have an interview coming just as soon…

P90X
July 3, 2008

Day 90 Fit Test

Even though I’m not finished with my program I thought I should run through a quick fit test to see how things are progressing. I didn’t try and peak for…