• Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

tour de france
July 2, 2008

Le Tour

It’s that time of year, again. The Tour starts on Saturday. If you’re not already stoked, watch this. While it’s a completely open tour this year I imagine most people’s…

July 1, 2008

Training in the Heat

It’s been hot lately. Really hot. Like North Pole hot. Okay, maybe not that hot, relatively, as there is still more snow in our mountains than there is covering the…

June 25, 2008


This morning I overslept on purpose. Yesterday, I spent a good part of my work day researching sleep and, after what I’d found, getting back in bed seemed smart instead…

June 25, 2008


Nothing, NOTHING, is as important as motivation when it comes to getting fit. With enough motivation everything will fall into place eventually. Without it, all the science in the world…

June 24, 2008

Mind Over Mountains

My friend Hans is up to something pretty cool. He and Yuji Hirayama are trying to break the Huber brothers’ speed record on The Nose. This wouldn’t be big news…

June 20, 2008

Good Old Fashioned Weight Training

I’ve been incredibly sore all week. Part of this is from doing a race as my first run of the year. The other part is from picking up the intensity…

June 18, 2008


When I’m doing a doubles routine a skip a lot of the more aerobic-oriented workouts in X because I’m generally getting heaps of this type of training on my bike….