Features

  • Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

Experiment In Power: Climbing Workout #2
Features
April 29, 2014

Experiment In Power: Climbing Workout #2

I’ve been messing around with post-activation potentiation for climbers, on and off, for a few years without any conclusions. While its effectiveness for total body strength is without question, the…

Pulling John
Features
April 26, 2014

Pulling John

For your weekend Psyche, here’s more John Brzenk, along with a few other rad characters, in the film Pulling John (rent here on Amazon) or get it from Netfix. I’ve…

Maintaining Power
Features
April 25, 2014

Maintaining Power

As power month comes to a close, Phil Requist has appropriately posted an article with some protocols for maintaining power throughout the year. His observation, that power gains lost are…

Climbing Power Workout #1
Features
April 24, 2014

Climbing Power Workout #1

Here’s the first of the two power routines that I did this month. I did this one four times, and used it to gauge progress. Strength improved over 20% in…

When To End Your Training Block
Features
April 22, 2014

When To End Your Training Block

My block of power training is complete, slightly ahead a schedule. I made great improvements in only six workouts, so why, you might ask, would I shut it down midway…

“The Best” Athletes Over 60
age
April 18, 2014

“The Best” Athletes Over 60

This week’s Psyche features “10(12) Athletes Over 60 Who Can Kick Your Butt”,  a great, motivational piece from The Daily Burn. Not sure about “the best” sensationalism, since neither of…

Shut Up, Stomach!
Features
April 15, 2014

Shut Up, Stomach!

Fascinating report on NPR yesterday about how what we think we’ve eaten can affect how hungry we are. I first heard the news on NPR, then was sent this link…