Features

  • Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

Safe & Efficient Power Training
Features
April 8, 2014

Safe & Efficient Power Training

Tinkering with another workout today that could, theoretically, change how we train for climbing. It’s already changed how we train for many power sports because it makes power training safe….

1,000′ of Vertical in 27 Minutes!
climbing
April 4, 2014

1,000′ of Vertical in 27 Minutes!

This week’s Psyche is nuts. So much so that Planet Mountain, a web site solely devoted to athletic exploits in the mountains, had this to say about it. We heard…

The Power Of (Not) Eating
Features
April 3, 2014

The Power Of (Not) Eating

Today’s post is on losing weight while training power. Gravity athletes (climbers, cyclists, dancers, etc) are obsessed with their strength to weight ratio. I won’t go into specifics why you…

Power Training: What & Why?
Features
April 1, 2014

Power Training: What & Why?

April is power month. I’ll be posting a series of articles and workouts on power training, which is one of my favorite things to do. Unfortunately, since I’ve spent that…

Gimme Kraft!
Features
March 31, 2014

Gimme Kraft!

This is a review of a new book on training for climbing. Gimme Kraft! (German for Give me Power!) is much more of a reference book than anything else. It contains…

How To Organize A Training Cycle
Features
March 27, 2014

How To Organize A Training Cycle

Today we take a look at the thought process around organizing a training cycle. 1      Start with a goal and work backwards. This simplifies the structuring process. In order to…