Features

  • Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

BODathon Training For Sports
Features
September 23, 2015

BODathon Training For Sports

The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics
Beachbody
August 27, 2015

Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics

Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

Overtraining Syndrome
crazy training
June 23, 2015

Overtraining Syndrome

Here’s a great article in Outside called Running On Empty about something  called Overtraining Syndrome. You’ve heard a lot of talk about overtraining here. As with most athletes, the balance…

Drinking for Platelets
Cancer Nutrition
April 30, 2015

Drinking for Platelets

Perhaps there’s more physiological science to all those studies showing drinkers out live non-drinkers than we know. They’ve always been chalked up to psychology and/or coincidence. After months of trying…

Training For Your Goals
climbing
April 17, 2015

Training For Your Goals

For your weekend Psyche, here’s a very cool video on training for your goals, featuring climber Emily Harrington who plans to go huge in 2015. If you’re a regular, you’ve…

Less Than Zero
Cancer Training
April 14, 2015

Less Than Zero

Here’s another recovery update, which I thought was worth posting since I thought of a funny title. As I mentioned last time, there have been some hiccups in my comeback,…