• Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

What’s Your 2015 Epic Challenge?
December 30, 2014

What’s Your 2015 Epic Challenge?

I’m a fan of New Year’s resolutions. Even if you quit they’re a great tool for motivation, since writing them down provides some level of commitment. It doesn’t matter how you…

The Dawn Wall Goes!
November 21, 2014

The Dawn Wall Goes!

A couple of days ago Tommy Caldwell freed the last remaining aid pitch of his 7-year project up the longest and blankest section of Yosemite’s El Capitan, opening what is undoubtably…

Ondra’s Training
November 9, 2014

Ondra’s Training

Is it ironic or normal that the longer I can’t train the more psyched I get about it? Adam Ondra won both the World lead and bouldering championships this year….

Cancer: Don’t Worry, Be Happy
October 30, 2014

Cancer: Don’t Worry, Be Happy

“Alright you idiot,” I said to myself. “You finally killed yourself.” This was during one of many stupid scenarios I’ve put myself in. Here I was  watching my entire body convulse,…