Features

  • Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

How To Not Get Sore
Features
September 30, 2014

How To Not Get Sore

Here’s a reference article on muscle soreness that I wrote over at The Beachbody Blog. 5 pretty simple rules to avoid getting sore in the first place, followed by a few…

Fasting Before Chemo
Cancer Nutrition
September 21, 2014

Fasting Before Chemo

My life has turned into a “what’s best to eliminate cancer” show. Two conflicting practices, not eating and eating as much as you possibly can, lead the way. Both are…

Chemo Is Like Reverse Alpinism
Chemo
September 14, 2014

Chemo Is Like Reverse Alpinism

Getting chemo is a strange experience. The goal, to kill your cancer with enough reserves left to survive, is a lot like high-altitude mountaineering. Only in reverse. And without the…

America’s Best Burritos
Features
September 13, 2014

America’s Best Burritos

Reference posts are common on my blog but this is the first time I’ve posted one for myself. This series of articles is a search for the best burrito in…

Cancer: My Treatment Protocol
Features
September 7, 2014

Cancer: My Treatment Protocol

Many of you have been asking and I’d rather point to this than describe this detailed procedure over and over. I’ll try and keep this colloquial. If anyone would like…

Travel Psyche: Norway
climbing
September 6, 2014

Travel Psyche: Norway

Planning trips is one of the best motivators I know of so adding this place to the list. Of course, I’m not much of a leisure traveler. Other than family events,…