Features

  • Home Climbing System: Old School Meets New Science »

    Even though I have one of the best climbing gyms in the country a five-minute bike ride from my house, a home training system is important given my busy lifestyle….

  • Evaluating Altitude & Breath Training »

    I was recently asked to evaluate the Training Mask, along with other altitude training devices and realized that, while I’ve been playing with breathing exercises for most of my life, I’ve…

  • Do Studies Still Mean Anything? »

    “We would never publish it, because then our competition would have it.” I wasn’t shocked when I heard this the other day. It made sense but, for some reason, I’d…

  • The Process »

    Looks like I’m going to have to migrate the site to another platform, or something, but in the mean time I’ll keep posting and maybe I’ll figure out what all…

  • Memory Lane: Joshua Tree Highballs »

    Second test post, with a nice climbing vid. Spent last weekend in Josh,  where I learned to climb in the 80s. The changes were not minor. “This is an entire…

  • Drink Coffee, Live Longer »

    Sorry for the infrequent and lack of depth in posts lately. I’ve been losing a hacking war, mainly because I haven’t had time to deal with it. But I may…

  • The John Gaskins Interview: 20 Years In Waiting »

    I’ve been waiting more than 20 years for this interview. Ever since David “Belt” Potter (aka The Reverend Speefnarkle) stopped reading climbing magazines until they honored his “Where’s the John…

  • Do You Really Need A Recovery Week? »

    This is the recovery week on the BODathon schedule and I’m pretty happy to be getting less sore. Training’s going well, perhaps very well, but without a full stock of blood…

  • BODathon Training For Sports »

    The BODathon is a intensive training program I set up for Beachbody CEO Carl Daikeler so he could train for something big in his limited time. Read more about it…

  • Ballistics, Blood & Biomechanics »

    Patience. It’s not my favorite word. While I work very hard at it when it comes to how I treat others, that interests wanes when it comes to myself. This…

From Blog

Cancer Announcement
Announcement
August 7, 2014

Cancer Announcement

This will undoubtably shock some people but I’ve been diagnosed with mantle cell lymphoma, a rare and aggressive cancer that is, thankfully, now treatable. The diagnosis happened a month ago…

The Old 8 Week Transition Diet
Features
August 7, 2014

The Old 8 Week Transition Diet

I first concocted this plan in the 80s. I first subscribed it to someone else in the 90s. It was one of the first things I wrote for Beachbody, just after the…

Eating Before You Workout
Features
August 5, 2014

Eating Before You Workout

The Beachbody Blog has been cranking out content, including a bunch of my old articles, tips, and Denis and I’s chats that have been spiffied up (I mean, should they…

Birthday Challenge Goes Epic
birthday challenge
July 1, 2014

Birthday Challenge Goes Epic

“25 routes was going to be a huge challenge for me! I hadn’t climbed routes in… uhh… years.” – Alex Johnson Birthday Challenge goes epic this year, both literally and…